ROTT N CHATTER, November 1993, Volume 2 Number 3 REGARDING TRAINING by J. R. Hoyt Getting a pup started on a leash can be a traumatic affair for both parties if some care is not taken. It is best to start with simply fitting a proper collar at around 10 weeks, then waiting for several more weeks before attempting to introduce a leash. Some trainers prefer to wait until the pup is around 5 months before starting with the leash. I have found that you can start younger if you go to some lengths to keep the experience pleasant and fun. Start with using a snap lock or buckle collar, no choke chain at this age. Fit the collar loose enough so the two fingers can be slipped under easily. This is too loose to keep a dog from slipping or backing out of, but I do not like tight collars on young dogs. Because of this use some caution in picking your training spots, to avoid unforutnate situations. Now that the pup is used to having a collar on, I like to take a small snap with a short piece of leash (2" - 3") or even a short piece of string, let it dangle. Make sure it (the 'tab') doesn not tangle or is so long that the pup can trip on it. Play with the pup and keep it's attention on a toy or a treat. It will shortly forget about the strange thing hanging from its collar. After a few lessons, you can leash. Use a 4' - 6' lightweight training leash when you start this next lesson and select a smaller location with few distractions. You don't want the pup to be able to get far if you happen to drop the leash. Use a treat to keep the pup's attention. Next, simply walk and get the pup to play around you. Don't try to control the pup with the leash at this point. Be sure to use only gentle retraint and lots of play and/or treats. After a few lessons, pick a larger area that allows you to walk around, but still a controlled area. Using a treat or a toy, start to walk around but let the pup pick his position, the only goal you have at this time is to accustom the pup to the leash and some gentle restraint if needed. When you feel comfortable with doing so, start to keep the pup on your left side while walking. Don't try to enforce a proper heel position. When you can walk about for 2 to 3 minutes with the pup under reasonable control you are on your way to being ready for a training class. Just keep it fun and no hard corrections at this stage. We teach all our pups from a tender age to "Drop It" or "out". This is the only exercise that we use a correction to accomplish. You start by teaching the pup to play and tug on an old cutoff pants leg. This is a game most all pups take readily to, just don't over do it. In the midst of the game give a firm command to "drop it" or "out", followed by an immediate flick on the end of the nose with a forefinger. This is followed by a second firmer command and harder flick if the pup does not comply. Praise the instant the pup responds and return to play, continue as though nothing has happened. Timing is of the utmost importance. Once again... command/flick...praise...continue play. Repeat this procedure 1 to 2 times during each play session. With Rotties, it will usually take only 2 - 3 sessions. Use this command whenever at play, such as playing ball. This ingreans in a young dog's mind that first it must comply when you speak, no matter what it is doing. It also teaches the pup to accept an unpleasant correction if it fails to comply with a command. The flick on the nose will not make a dog handshy nor will it injure, just don't miss and hit teeth or it will hurt you worse than the pup. With large breed dogs, it is important that the owner establish the leadership role and that firmness can go hand in hand with fairness. The next step in obedience is to choose a trainer to learn from. It is one of the most important decisions you will make for you and your Rottie kid. So next month we will talk about things to check out before you jump in with both feet. Until then.... Happy Heeling